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Green fashion: solo il consumatore può spingere la moda a diventare sostenibile

moda_greenL’industria del fashion ha fatto grandi passi avanti sulla strada della sostenibilità. Si moltiplicano infatti le iniziative di grandi marchi che prendono coscienza dell’impatto che il business della moda, tradizionalmente legato alla stagionalità ed alle tendenze, ha sull’ambiente.

Solo per citarne alcune ricordiamo la creazione da parte di Puma, marchio del gruppo dell’alta moda PPR, del primo conto economico ambientale, l’appello di Patagonia, produttrice di abbigliamento outdoor, a riflettere prima di acquistare un nuovo capo e la creazione di una linea di jeans ad elevato risparmio d’acqua da parte di Levis. 

Ma non probabilmente tutto ciò ancora non basta. C’è ancora un elemento importantissimo di cui tenere conto, ed è l’atteggiamento del consumatore.

Nei confronti degli acquisti di capi di abbigliamento o accessori, è ancora ben radicata, soprattutto nei “fashion addict” la convinzione che un prodotto di moda duri una sola stagione e che si può essere trendy solo se acquista sempre l’ultimo modello. Non neghiamo certamente che questo atteggiamento sia stato indotto nel corso dei decenni dalle stesse aziende del “fashion business” che hanno da sempre prosperato, favorendo e stimolando una domanda continua per i loro prodotti, nonché inspirando un concetto di moda effimera e sempre mutevole.

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Un primo tentativo di invertire questa tendenza e spingere i consumatori “di moda” a ripensare in ottica maggiormente sostenibile il proprio atteggiamento, lo propongono il Danish Fashion Institute e BSR, un network internazionale di consulenti green. Il progetto si chiama NICE Consumer Project, dove NICE è un acronimo inglese e sta per Nordic initiative clean and ethical. Esso si propone di ispirare i cambiamenti nelle politiche dei governi  e nelle strategie delle imprese del settore per aiutare i consumatori a fare scelte più sostenibili al momento dell'acquisto, uso, cura e smaltimento dei capi di abbigliamento e degli accessori.

In concomitanza con il lancio del progetto il Danish Fashion Institute e BSR hanno presentato un report sull’industria del fashion, denominato “The Nice Consumer”. La ricerca definisce cosa si intende per consumo sostenibile nel settore della moda ed identifica le barriere che attualmente impediscono il suo sviluppo. Mostra casi di comunicazione di successo focalizzati sul cambiamento dei modelli di consumo per l'industria della moda. Delinea i ruoli che potrebbero assumere le aziende, i governi  ed i consumatori nel rendere possibile lo sviluppo del consumo sostenibile nel settore. Il progetto comprende anche la diffusione di tre webinar gratuiti destinati a tutti gli operatori del fashion tra i quali designer, buyer, responsabili aziendali e politici.

L’aspirazione è soprattutto quella di coinvolgere tutta l’Unione Europea presentando una raccomandazione alla presidenza dell’UE il prossimo 3 maggio nel corso del Copenhagen Fashion Summit, il più grande evento internazionale sulla moda sostenibile. Jonas Eder-Hansen, direttore dello sviluppo al, Danish Fashion Institute afferma in proposito: “Vogliamo creare un movimento globale della moda sostenibile che spinga all’azione il consumatore. Solo  con il suo coinvolgimento infatti potremo generare un vero cambiamento nell’industria della moda”.

Paola Valeri

 

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